Crusader Castles

For almost two hundred years, from the late 11th to the late 13th centuries, western Europeans maintained a presence in the Levant through the Crusades. A series of Christian holy wars triggered largely by the Seljuk Turks’ Anatolian advances (that is, a Muslim empire encroaching on the Byzantine capital of Constantinople now Istanbul), the Crusades before they were over resulted not only in decidedly un-Christian atrocities in the Holy Land, but also in a perverse attack on Constantinople itself, the western Roman Catholics pillaging in the Fourth Crusade the Orthodox Christian imperial city. (Constantinople would finally fall, to the Ottomans, in the 15th century.)

Brief chronology:

1096 – Crusaders arrive in the Middle East.
1099 – Crusaders take Jerusalem, taking advantage of a lack of unity in the Muslim forces. Residents of Jerusalem (including many Christians) are slaughtered. Several small Crusader states are formed in the Levant.
1171 – Saladin conquers Shiite Fatimid caliphate in Egypt and forms a stronger, unified Arab force.
1187 – Battle of Hattin. Saladin captures Jerusalem, reducing the Crusader presence to a string of coastal cities, principally Acre.
1260 – Ayubbid dynasty (founded by Saladin) is replaced by the Mamluk Sultanate. The Mamluks were a slave military class of Turkish origin and rose to power by coup. The first Mamluk Sultan was Baibars, who fought off not only the Crusaders but the Mongols, stopping their advance in Syria.
1291 – Fall of Acre (and Tortosa).

Some of the greatest architectural remnants of the Crusaders are their forts. Some built on preexisting Byzantine or Arab forts, and all eventually controlled by the victorious Arabs, the castles are some of the world’s finest, not only in their magnificent structure and use of military technology but also in their spectacular locations. We visited several sights, but will focus on a few below. [Please also refer to my earlier post on Tortosa]

Krak des Chevaliers (Qalaat al-Hosn)

Undoubtedly the greatest of the Crusader castles, and in a fine state of preservation, the Krak was the site of a castle since at least the early 11th century, but was expanded by the Crusaders in the mid-12th century, when it was under the control of the Knights Hospitaller. The Krak formed part of a defense network that spanned the Crusader coast and the hinterlands, and was twice successfully defended. Mamluk Sultan Baibars led a final siege of the castle in 1271, after which the Crusaders surrendered.

Machicolations at the top of the tower, a defensive structure allowing the dropping of missiles or hot liquid on an attacking force. Note the band of Arabic inscription.

Entry to the castle, a gradual slope allowing for horses to make their way to the giant stables.

Moat and glacis, or protective slope, of the central keep, all within the outer walls. The glacis is 25 meters thick (!) at its base.

The gothic loggia. Crusader castles are generally devoid of ornamentation, making it all the more striking to see this beautiful entry to the great hall. The gothic style is a very tangible reminder that the Crusaders were, in fact, European. Outside the window you can see the central courtyard of the inner castle.

Close-up of door of loggia to the great hall (on right of picture above).

This cavernous space behind the great hall connects the kitchen area to the chapel. The open stalls visible on the left are old latrines.

The chapel was converted into a mosque in the Arab period, when the mihrab (prayer niche, to the right) and minbar (pulpit) were added on the southern (Mecca-facing) wall. The chapel, of course, faces east.

Chastel Blanc (Safita)

On a peak visible from both the Krak and Tortosa, Chastel Blanc was a link in the Crusaders’ defense. After it was damaged in an attack by Saladin in 1188, the Knights Templar took control of Chastel Blanc (along with Tortosa), and refortified it into the seemingly almost solid cube it remains today. The castle was also won by Baibars in 1271. The central keep, which acted as the chapel of the fort, survives and is now an Orthodox church.

Margat (Qalaat Marqab)

On a breathtaking ridge overlooking the Mediterranean, Margat, originally an Arab fort, was strengthened by the Knights Hospitaller in the late 12th century. After successfully withstanding two sieges, the castle was surrendered to Sultan Qalaun (successor to Baibars) in 1285.

Remnant of a fresco (uncovered in 1987) of Jesus and his disciples visible on the ceiling of a side chapel of the fort’s chapel. (This photo was obtained by Derek squeezing his camera arm up to his shoulder through a very small open window and clicking blindly at the ceiling, the same way he confirmed that these frescos were indeed there.)

Saone (Qalaat Saladin)

Saone is an earlier construction, and has been renamed for Saladin, who took the castle in 1188. While not in the same state of preservation as some of the other castles, it is unique in having many identifiable works from the Byzantine, Crusader and Arab periods, and is located in beautiful woodland, with two canyons running up each side of the narrow fort.

Remnant of rock-cut support to the drawbridge. On the left you can see a metal platform that indicates where the drawbridge entered the castle.

A giant cistern (note the steps on the right).

The outer walls, but on top of solid rock.